You know you have watched a masterpiece of a show when even hours later you are struggling to articulate the exact emotions evoked by it. The one sure-fire thing though was that Sabyasachi is truly fascinated by everything vintage – with time he just gets bolder and better. Here are 7 things that made his collection, ‘Bater’, memorable.
While the 70s played muse to Sabyasachi in his last show, it was the glamour of the 40s that inspired Bater. Ensembles with fringes, intense texture and exquisite embroidery were fused with a fresh and modern twist on vintage silhouettes. My personal favorite was the floor-length sheer jacket that was worn over sarees with layered pleats. Tunics with asymmetrical hemlines combined with sheer skirts along with the fringed half-cape that complemented a red floor-length dress were the other standouts for me.
The Goth Factor
Goth reigned supreme at Bater. And it was not just in the form of the Black and Gold story that opened the show. Everything had a grimier feel to it – right from the undertones of red chosen to close the show, to the dark sets and the ominous melodies of the violin. Accessories with spikes, laces and nets added to the goth vibe.
Sabyasachi is a natural at storytelling. While certain typical Sabyasachi elements such as a vintage crystal chandelier were made a part of this year’s theme too, Bater unfolded against a backdrop of an abandoned, ruined house with crickets chirping over sonorous speakers. The ragged and soiled, suspended white fabrics added subtlety to the ambiance; in sharp contrast with the opulent collection.
The Red Soles
Gasps, squeals and sighs permeated through the audience as the famed red soles marched down the ramp. These are after all shoes that have beautified some of the most famous feet in the world! Highly intricate and embellished heels for women and smoking slippers with an Indian touch of baroque detailing for men accentuated the grandeur of the ensembles and made my heart skip a little beat when I spotted them.
Spiky accessories, right from headbands to clutches, were everywhere on the ramp. And honestly, those were accessories with an attitude.
Overstated eyelashes coupled with dark lips and the trademark bindi were what the ladies carried up to the ramp. As for the hair, it was sleek, parted down the middle and then tied in a low bun. Only Sabyasachi can successfully combine something as sophisticated as a bun with the goth feel! The men had a typical Rajputana look about them. Sabyasachi maintains that the Rajputana look is the biggest trend for men this season and for a few more to come. He’s totally practicing what he’s preaching!
The Bold New Sabya
Today Sabyasachi believes in taking bold, unafraid strides towards unapologetic sensuality. Plunging necklines, open backs and asymmetric hemlines sent out this message loud and clear: Indian couture is no longer about trousseau wear, it is made keeping in mind the need of global citizens.